Frequently Asked Questions

Q. How accurate is the plating on the hulls from WW1 and 2 in your range?

A. Most of the plated hulls have been done using actual shipyard plating plans or what's called shell expansion drawings, while some of my hulls have been plated using the best photos and as many photos as I can use. I use a printers .013mm Aluminium Litho plate in A3 size sheets, and each plate is cut to size and super glued onto the hull master before moulding. The Iowa class Battleship hull used 837 plates and took 4 weeks to fully plate.


Q. What are the delays in completing new hull masters, moulds and hence hulls?

A. There are several things that delay completion of my work.

1/ Sometimes I build hulls for Russ French at Defence Models and Graphics, Russ builds models for Defence Forces, Defence Industries, Government Departments and Dive companies among other groups. The work I do for Russ has precedence over all amateur model sales due to the usual urgency and short lead times associated with commercial work.

Frustratingly Commercial work can come at any time and out of the blue, but this is usually my main income therefore very important.

2/ The last few years have seen the hottest summers in Australian history, and the area I live is no exception. From Late November to late February my workshop regularly exceeds 40 degrees C, it's consistently in the low, mid or high thirties. 2 years ago on one day I measured 52 degrees C in my workshop. I have plans for air conditioning in my workshop, but time and finance is always short. 

I can really only fibre glass in temperatures of 30 degrees or less, and humidity under 60-70% for a good product.

3/ Winter mornings here can be as low as minus 10 degrees C, but usually soon warms up by mid morning. Winter is not as bad as summer, but does slow things down a little.

4/ I spray primer and gelcoat outside my workshop as I don't have a spray booth yet, which means hull master and hull production can be delayed by wet or windy weather.


Q. Do these hulls come with plans?

A. No, these are extra due to the fact that most modelers research for and buy their own plans. Many of the plans I have are subject to copyright, so I cannot copy them and sell them. But please email me, and I can tell you if I can copy my set of plans for a particular hull, or I can supply you with a link to plans that may suit your needs.2019 UPDATE;

I no longer have the capacity to copy plans over destroyer size due to my usual printers closing down. There are no alternative printers in my area with the printers capable of copying large plans or making enlargements.


Q. Do these hulls come with fittings?

A. Generally speaking No, at this time I manufacture fibre glass hulls only. A few of my hulls can be supplied with rudder/s. When you order a hull, I will let know if there are rudders available for your hull.


Q. Do I produce running sets for my hulls?

A. No, Your best to go to my links page and go to G T Sitek Scale Brass Propellers. George Sitek makes very high quality running sets, and he does custom orders too. 


Q. Do I have plans to produce fittings in the future?

A. Yes, I plan to produce rudders, gun turrets, funnels and some of the more complicated items in the future for all the hulls in my range. Hulls will dominate my schedule though for at least the next 2 years as this is a much greater need.


Q. Since I don't produce fittings at this time, where may I purchase them?

A. ShapeWays is a good place to start. An American 3D printing company with a vast range of manufactures from a multitude of designers. But for model ship building, look up these designers;

3D BOATS by Hawkins


Model Monkey


There may be others that I have not come into contact with yet.


Q. How are my hulls made?

A. I spray my gelcoat into the moulds, and I hand lay up the fibre glass. Little hulls up to a metre long get 1 layer of 225gsm fibre glass and 1 layer of tissue glass. from 1 metre up to 2 metres get two full layers of 225. Hulls 2 metres to 3 metres get 2 full layers and a 100mm stip around the top edge. Battleships, Battle Cruisers and and small Carriers get 3 full layers and 100mm strip around the top edge, flat bottom Battleships get a 4th layer just in the flat area on the bottom of the hulI. Super carriers get 6 layers in the bottom, 4 layers up to hangar deck level and 3 layers up to flight deck level. I generally give my hulls 7 days to cure adequately in the mould before I de-mould the hull.


Q. Do I build fully complete Models?

A. Yes, for myself as a hobby, but Not for customer sales. For complete models, please go to my links page and go to Defence Models and Graphics who build quality finished products.